So you've decided to bite the bullet and construct your own model railway, and along with it, the model train table it sits upon. Many people start by building their first layouts on a table top or a simple sheet of plywood, and while this is simplicity personified, it does have its limitations. The biggest concern is that everything has to be on top and nothing can be below ground level. This is when most modelers see the benefits of building a table tailor made just for any scenery or landscape they might choose. First, you need to plan carefully the size, relative weight of different sections, and design of your new layout. If one section is more scenery intensive, it will require more attention to support. An L-girder support system has become the standard way to support your model layout, and can be adapted to almost any configuration, providing you with all the strength your layout will need. Although L-girder bench work is very strong, it is still inexpensive. It's very functional and goes together easily. It consists of a platform of girders, cross braces and joists that all work together. Generally the joists are 18 inches apart but they don't always have to be evenly spaced. Try and use care when selecting the lumber for both the support as well as the actual tabletop. Obviously you'll want flat pieces that will carry your roadbed without problem. Take care in the support pieces as well. Cheaper grades of lumber will warp over time, and I don't have to tell you what that could mean to your layout. If your layout is larger that 4 x 8 you should still keep the pieces to that size to make them easier to transport in case you want to move your layout. Use wood screws from underneath to assemble the bench work cross members as well as the support risers. By doing this you will spare the scenery if you happen to loose a screw. Try not to split the wood by using screws that are too large or by placing them in the wrong spots. Choose any spots carefully that you want to cut for scenery or access. Opinions vary as to whether you should saw holes in the table top before or after the track is placed. Personally, I think it is better to do it all beforehand, as the very act of sawing, regardless of the quality of your tool, can possibly send enough vibrations through your layout to loosen track and ballast, making your previously smoothly running operation into a clackety-clack mess. Just my 2 cents. Tabletop layouts tend to be from 48 to 55 inches high. This is adjustable and if you've bolted it together instead of using nails or screws, you can change it with just a wrench. It's best if you can see the tops of highest hills and grades without needing a step stool. Take the time needed in planning your special train table. It will be well worth it.
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