The Manor in Friends colony West is buzzing nowadays. Deservedly so, for after a long time it has acquired F&B that is worthy of its classy interiors. India Accent may be new to the city, but it is the country cousin of Delhi’s Oriental Octopus and Chor Bizarre are some of the best restaurants in Delhi as well as Tamarai in London. It is path-breaking restaurant because it is a taste of Indian food fifty years from now. I’d gladly close my eyes and order the tasting menu (Rs. 1,800 veg/ Rs. 1900 non-veg) or light lunch (Rs.700/800) with Rs. 1,000 for 5 half glasses of wine paired by no less than Charles Metcalfe with bars in delhi. Puchkas (Rs. 225) are taken to the next level altogether, whether you use presentation as your yardstick or sheer ingenuity (there’s watermelon and cinnamon pani or pineapple juice). Why has nobody ever thought of these combinations before? Foie gras stuffed galawat with strawberry green chilli chutney (Rs. 650) is a mind-boggling combination. Chilli brings out the essence of strawberry and galawat kebabs are the Indian answer to foie gras, in that both of them have been teased out of their natural form into something to be put on show Chef Manish Mehrotra has excelled himself in this menu. Indian accent opened at the Manor the budget hotel in Delhi. Roast scallops balchao, saboodana papad and kokum powder (Rs. 350 per piece), by comparison is a marriage of unequals, yet still works. The homely taste of authentic Goan Balchao is set off by a single perfect scallop. A tiny wedge of sago papad is more of textural contrast that of garnish and the kokum powder adds a subdued buzz in the background. What is so special about the never-seen-before combinations at Indian Accent is that all of them work because of the tightly controlled portions of flavor accents. There’s no clash of civilizations on your palate. Other dishes are more or less straight interpretations of classics with premium ingredients used.
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