As timeless as Falling Water House by Mr Wright, ageless like classic Greek and Roman architecture; the silk tie, an ideal medium for designers to capture the past present and future on a small peace of cloth that throughout the ages has become the epitome of male self expression. Tracing its origins would be like tracing the footsteps of Genghis Kahn. For centuries, in peace and in conflict artists have been creating beautiful objects of fashion decoration for men, as a focal point that tells a tale of who you are and what you want to say without uttering a word. Historic events are well documented and preserved in private collections. The art deco movement from 1910 to 1940 was perhaps the most prolific era for textile design, and even today its influence is found in collections by Versace, Hugo Boss and Puccini. Frank Sinatra reputedly boasted a fine collection of more than five hundred silk ties that he would often share with loyal fans. Elvis Presley popularised the Bandanna and Neckerchief and millions of his fans created a lucrative market for designers and retailers the world over. The Beatles and eccentric tailor Tommy Nutter displayed vibrant patterns in the form of paisley and flowers modernising the paisley pattern and cemented the future of one of the oldest symbols used in fashion. Not a decade in five has there been an absence of paisley in ties or cufflinks, jacket linings and scarves such is the longevity of certain styles. Now we see an abundance of familiar patterns bringing new life to the 60’s and 70’s. Think of all the processes from the controlled environment of breeding silk worms, so delicate a life that a nicotine finger can end its life. Propagating and harvesting Mulberry leaves, collecting cocoons, spinning, weaving: The sheer magnitude of technological equipment designed specific for the silk industry; how tradition has survived where even in modern times access to hand looms is not an obstacle. Realising all of these processes from the rawest material to distribution to retail stores, is it any wonder that the fetching price for a hand made tie is in excess of $200.00. The most zealously kept secret in history finally spilled across the borders of China to other parts of the world. Although silk weaving thrives in England, Italy Korea and Japan, China still produces 80% of the raw product. The silk route lives on although its directions have multiplied. Today some of the worlds finest heavy jacquard cloths are produce in English and Italian mills, however as China grows in technological terms they are destined to once again be the centre of the industry they gave birth to many centuries ago. A closing anecdote: When silk was first discovered, it was reserved exclusively for the use of the ruler. It was permitted only to the emperor, his close relations and the very highest of his dignitaries. Within the palace, the emperor is believed to have worn a robe of white silk; outside, he, his principal wife, and the heir to the throne wore yellow, the colour of the earth. This now leaves us with the question of the rise and fall of cufflinks, which have been given a recent new lease on life by adventurous designers such as Paul Smith and Simon Carter. Cufflinks: always the perfect companion to silk ties.
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