Djibouti is a sovereign nation on the Horn of Africa, at the strategically important Bab el Mandeb (Gate of Tears), guarding the entrance to the Red Sea from the Indian Ocean via the Gulf of Aden. Twenty miles to the east, across the entrance to the Red Sea, lies the Yemen. This compact republic has many unique features making a visit very rewarding. Formerly a French colonial outpost, it retains its French connections and cultural perspectives. Geography The size of the US State of Massachusetts, the country has a coastal plain backed by stony desert (where the French Foreign Legion trains), with plateaux and highlands - especially the Goda Massif in the north. It is bordered on the on the west by Ethiopia - a major trading partner, on the south by Somalia, and on the north by Eritrea, surrounding the Gulf of Tadjoura. This Gulf leads via the Ghoubbet Pass into Lake Ghoubbet (the Devil's Cauldron). One of the least hospitable places on earth, Lake Assal is a flooded volcanic crater ringed by long dormant volcanoes and lava fields. It is located in the Afar Depression, part of the Great African Rift Valley, 153 meters below sea level - the lowest point on the African continent. Lake Assal's waters are the most saline in the world, containing over 34 percent salt. It is a semi-presidential republic, and its territory is, divided into five regions and eleven districts. The capital city is itself called Djibouti. Wildlife The extremely rare Djibouti Francolin - a partridge - lives in the Juniper forests in the Goda Massif - a highland area in the north. There is a wide range of raptors, and in the month of August there are notable gatherings of migrating birds. Mammals include wild dogs, warthogs and, surprisingly, leopards. Velvet monkeys live in the Day Forest National Park, where over fifty percent of Djibouti's wildlife lives. There are camels aplenty, and herds of donkeys. Sealife Lake Ghoubbet, less than ten mile across, is not deep and has no fresh water flowing into it. Plankton breed there profusely and it is a major breeding area for the harmless whale-shark, which lives on plankton. In addition, there are more than two hundred species of coral, manta rays, barracuda, sailfish and marine life galore. Culture For the artist, Djibouti offers little, unless a painter, though considerable efforts are being undertaken to develop its cultural life. Lacking a university, there is little academic life of note. Of course, for authors writing about Djibouti and the region in general, there is plenty of material. Food Traditional foods are dairy products and meat, supplemented by grain-based dishes. An Ethiopian bread recipe, injera, is very popular. One interesting feature of the diet is the chewing of the light narcotic leaf, qat, which is imported fresh from Ethiopia. Qat is consumed recreationally by nearly all men and has a mild amphetamine effect. Places to Stay Most tourists stay in Djibouti City. There are several international hotels up to five star standard, and smaller local hotels. There is a beach holiday complex on Moucha Island, twenty minutes by boat from Djibouti. There are smaller hotels in other towns (for example Tadjoura), but quality is variable. Nightlife Djibouti City has a French naval presence, plus a US military base at Camp Lemonnier. So, a lot of the lively nightlife has developed to service their requirements. There are numerous bars, cafés, clubs and restaurants. Activities are rather more restrained at Plage des Sables Blancs. Getting There Many flights require a change at Sana'a in the Yemen, Addis Ababa in Ethiopia or Jeddah (Saudi Arabia), although a Djibouti-based airline has recently started direct flights from London and Paris. In summary, Djibouti is a land of contrasts, politically stable in a continent of uncertainty, with many unique natural features to offer the intrepid traveller, from exquisite white beaches to cool forest parks in the hills.
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